It's beloved as comfort food, but this classic dish can hold its own at even the fanciest affairs. When I moved to New York in the mid-1990s, there were so many hostesses and hosts who gave easy, elegant, fun lunches and dinners. They were well known for their parties, and though varied in their accomplishments and lives, they all seemed to understand the power of simple, chic, crowd-pleasing food: baked potatoes with caviar, crabmeat au gratin, gussied-up grits…even meatloaf